Cooking from Memory

photo of octopus legs on a metal tray filled with ice

Maybe it’s something you read, a video you see, an ingredient you come across at a market. For me this week, the spark was more elusive. I’m not sure where the thread originated but soon I was fixated on a dish I have not eaten in more than a dozen years.
This octopus and potato salad was the second (or maybe third course) in a seven-course chef’s menu at an Italian restaurant I used to work at. I didn’t last long at that restaurant for many reasons but I ate some incredible food that I doubt will ever fade from memory.
Served at room temperature, it proved a moment’s rest stop along the evening’s journey. The potato carries more flavour than you might expect. The lightly charred octopus is alternatively chewy and crispy. Fresh celery and parsley solidify the course’s salad credentials. It’s here I admit that the red capsicum addition is all mine; I’ll wear that.

Potato and Octopus salad

400g octopus legs – I bought mine already cooked
2 medium potatoes
fresh lemon juice
the good olive oil
garlic
salt & pepper
I celery stick including leaves if still intact
parsley, as much as you fancy
1 roasted red capsicum

Mix up your dressing first so it’s ready to use straight away – one third lemon juice, two thirds olive oil, a little garlic (fresh or confit) mashed/grated, salt and pepper to taste. My top tip particularly when it comes to vegetables is to dress them while they’re still warm so they suck in all the flavour.
Peel and cut the potatoes into a large dice and steam or boil until just cooked through. While still warm, dress the potatoes in some of the dressing. Don’t use it all though because you’ll be doing the same to the octopus.
The octopus as I bought it was already fully cooked so it just needed colour and texture. I char-grilled the octopus legs on my bbq for several minutes on each side till slightly crispy. If cooking from raw, be mindful not to overcook, lest it get rubbery. I then sliced them into bite-size rounds then tossed with the dressing.
To flesh out the salad, slice up the celery, picking off the leaves as well as a generous amount of parsley leaves and mix the salad together. Finally, add the sliced red capsicum. You can make this salad the night before you need it or in the morning.

A last note – Please seek out Julian Barnes’ The Pendant in the Kitchen if only to read the essay ‘Take Two Medium Onions’.

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© Copyright Amanda Kennedy 2025